On last Saturday, July 23, Kelly, Sylvia, and I went to the opening day of the week long annual Mud Festival in Boryeong City by Daecheon Beach with several of the GIST undergraduates and another foreign graduate student. None of us had ever been there before, nor did we know very much about it, so it was an exciting adventure for all of us.

We needed to take a 2.5 hour bus ride from Gwanju to Boryeong City, but when we arrived at the terminal, there were not enough seats on the bus for everyone in line. Our choices were to either wait an hour for the next bus, or to sit on the floor! Fortunately, it had not rained that day, so the floor wasn’t wet and muddy. There were a lot of foreigners on the bus. I met an English teacher from Texas who was very nice and shared his breakfast with me. In fact, the vast majority of Americans and Canadians in Korea are English teachers. It seems like a great opportunity to me. The ones I have spoken to have had their housing provided for free while they are here, plus their salary. They need to work during the week, but they have the time and money to travel and see Korea on the weekends.
We had to get up early that morning to catch the bus, so we tried to sleep on the floor by leaning against one another, but it was quite difficult! Two and a half bumpy hours later, we arrived at the Mud Festival. I hadn’t seen so many white people since I left the states! There were so many ethnicities there that we felt like we were in California, not Korea. I heard that a lot of the foreigners are US military, stationed in Korea.
We were able to rent some lockers on the beach, and then we went and got covered in mud! Buckets of mud were provided along with paintbrushes. For 5000 won (US$4.76), we got to ride big blow up slides covered in mud and run through mud covered obstacle courses. These were fun, but perhaps not worth the long wait in line.


While we were waiting, the Korean students taught us a game to pass the time. We stood in a circle and made fist with both hands with the thumbs together on top. If you kept both thumbs down, that meant “0”. One thumb=”1”, two thumbs=”2”. We took turns saying a number between 1 and 10 and then everyone chose a thumb position. If the thumb number was different than the chosen number, we continued around the circle. If the number was the same, the person who chose the number got to punish everyone else by slapping their forearms with two fingers. If you did it right, it made a loud slapping noise, but I could not get the hang of it. Seungbo, one of the undergraduates, said that I “had no skill” for it!
There was also an area where you could paint designs on yourself with colored mud. Unfortunately, the line was too long for us to paint ourselves, but here are some pictures of other people.
We swam in the ocean when we wanted to wash off. There were so many people there! It was super crowded.
At least half of the people were foreigners. I know that every time I look in a mirror I see a white person, but I was still surprised by all the foreigners at the beach. Anyway, there were a lot of cool shells at the beach, too. When we first arrived at the festival, it was sunny and hot, but while we were at the beach it poured rain, and then it was sunny again in the afternoon. It is rainy season here, but the Koreans said that that was still pretty weird weather.

For lunch, we had the Korean version of fair food. I had a Korean corndog. They called it a hot dog, but it was basically a corndog with a strange breading. I also had some boneless fried chicken. The batter was more like tempura than American fried chicken batter.

We spent the afternoon exploring the area around the festival and playing in the mud and the ocean. It was so fun! What I thought was also interesting is that a lot of Koreans do not wear swimsuits when they go to the sea. Instead, they usually wear a t-shirt and shorts. The GIST students tell me that while Koreans will wear bikinis and swim trunks to water parks, only a few will wear such outfits to the beach.
Afterwards, we paid 2,000 won (US$1.90) to use the public showers they had at the beach. They were disgusting. First of all, the entryway was also the changing area and the exit, so mud covered people were trying to squeeze past clean people in a very small space. The shower itself was just a large empty room with showerheads attached to the walls, no stalls or curtains. They were the type of shower heads that you can move around on a hose, and the water was cold. The floor was also pretty dirty, and the drains were covered in garbage. For a buck ninety, I expect either lukewarm water or a garbage free floor…
At dinner time, a lot of the restraints near the festival were temporary ones were full of foreigners. Fortunately, we had Koreans in our group. They found a Korean place for us to go to for dinner. The other diners there were the local workers from the festival, so we knew it was legit. The meal was a spicy stew of various meats, noodles, and veggies. Seungbo said that this dish originated during WWII when many Koreans did not have much food, so they would just throw whatever food they could find together to make this dish.

That night there was a free concert on the festival grounds. Now, I usually don’t like concerts that much, but this one was really fun! It began with some speeches by the mayor of the city and some other government officials and then a comedian, which were a little boring to me since I didn’t know enough Korean to understand the speeches or the jokes. After that there were at least ten performances by different singers. If it was a group, they would dress in coordinating outfits and dance while they sang. What I thought was interesting is that in America, I would say showing cleavage is more acceptable than showing a lot of leg, but here it was the opposite. The girls would often wear super short skirts or shorts and sometimes belly shirts, but they never showed cleavage or anything close.
The concert was punctuated with fireworks, smoke and laser shows, bursts of flame, bubbles, and confetti! It was very, very cool. I liked the music a lot too. Most of it was Kpop, but there were some English songs, too. One girl sang a Korean version of “I Will Survive.”

After the concert, there was a really brilliant fireworks show set to music. The whole experience was really fun. I wish I could have gotten better pictures of the performers. The fireworks photo is courtesy of Ahbi, a postdoc researcher in the same lab as me. He has a very nice camera and is really into photography.

After this it was too late to catch a bus back to Gwangju, so we stayed at a Korean public bathhouse (Jjimjilbang) instead. Normally the price to use the bathhouse is 4000 won, but for 7000 won you can spend the night. At the front counter, you are given two small towels and a pair of shorts and a tshirts. Girls wore blue, boys wore orange, and children get yellow. After the front desk, girls and boys separate. First you leave your shoes in a little locker and take the key. It comes on an ankle bracelet so you can keep hold of it in the bath. After the shoe lockers, we reached a big locker room where we changed into the clothes we were issued and left our things in a big locker that matched the number and key of our shoe locker. We were too tired to shower that night, so we went straight into the common room where boys and girls mingled again. It was so cool! There was a snack counter where you could buy drinks and food, and there were also various sauna-like rooms you could go into. The first was a cold room. I’m not sure how cold it was, but the pipes on the wall were covered with ice crystals!

The next room was 40 C. It had a tiled floor and really beautiful walls. There were wooden blocks to use for pillows so you would sleep in there if you wanted.

The second hot room was between 50 and 60 C. This was my favorite. I don’t have a picture of this room because there was a woman sleeping in here, and I thought it would be rude and a little weird to take a picture with her in it. Anyway, the floor was covered in white rocks the size of marbles. There were also sackcloth mats to lay on, and rakes to shape the ground with.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The hottest room was shaped like a huge chimney or pizza oven. I do not know what temperature this room was, but it was way too hot! We had to hop from foot to foot because the floor was too hot to stand on. Abhi stayed in there for over 30 seconds, and we were all very impressed.

I tried to take pictures of the inside, but they turned out blurry since I was jumping up and down.
Oohoh, one of the GIST undergraduates, showed us girls how to make one of our towels into a cute hat that looked like bear ears. See me modeling it below:

For sleeping arrangements, there was a separate girls only room that we could have slept in, but we ended up sleeping in the big coed room together. We obtained thin pads and hard rectangular pillows from a pile in the corner and slept on those. I think there were blankets available, too, but I didn’t bother looking for one. I wish I had, because though the room was warm at first, when the air conditioning was on (and blowing right at me!) it got a little cold, which made it difficult to sleep. Overall, I thought it was really fun. It was like a giant sleepover, and it actually got pretty crowded.
The next morning we got up early and used the bathing room. Girls and boys were separate again. The bathing room consisted of several standing showers, a lot of seated bathing stations, two saunas of different temperatures, a cold pool, and three hot tub-sized pools of increasing temperature. We showered and lounged in the bath-temperature pool. I tried getting in the cold pool and it really woke me up. I was glad that I have been on swimming and water polo teams for 6 years because that means my modesty and self-consciousness is pretty much gone. This was useful because the whole bathing room was completely open, with no stalls or curtains, and everyone was naked.
After we finished, we took two trains back to Gwanju and then a bus from the train station to GIST. Though we caught our first train a little after 9am, we did not get back to campus until after 1 pm. We were so tired, but the trip was definitely worth it. If you are interested, below I’ve included a price breakdown of the trip. It was more than I expected, but still not too bad for a weekend.
Cost:
Bus…………………..1200 won
Bus………………...13000 won
Festival…………….5000 won
Lunch……………….7000 won
Locker………………2000 won
Shower……………..2000 won
Dinner………………7000 won
Bus…………………..1200 won
Bath…………………7000 won
Train………………11000 won
Bread……………….3000 won
Bus…………………..1200 won
TOTAL…………...60,600 won, or US$57.69
The reason this blog is late is because I have been away from the internet for the last five days. Tell you all about it in the next blog!
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